We’re out in East Aurora today, friends, and can you believe it? We’re not here to buy a $40 scented candle or find a new farm share despite the shabby look of my kohlrabi last week. I had heard the legends were true and can now verify that if you squint in just the right light peering across the T.J. Maxx parking lot, you can find a hint of grit in this town.
Make sure you’re not just looking at Elma. Nestled in a strip mall next to a “paint your own pottery shop” (I said a hint of grit), Leo’s Pizzeria is by no means a dive, but a refreshing, dark, “domestic on draft” pizza-bar watering hole unlike its other locations that are strictly pizza-focused operations. A Buffalo micro-chain of four shops, either Leo’s is making great product or sneaking shops into pizza dead zones (cough) Southtowns. Gesundheit. Let’s dip this bad boy in a pint of Blue Light and flaunt it in these streets until they sweep us to the 400.
Dough: A SexySlices Standout. I don’t want to like this. This thing has been lubed like an F1 car and its pan pizza buttery bottom and crunchless undercarriage normally aren’t my thing. But I’ll be damned if this wasn’t delicious. Not gummy in the slightest and the crust packs enough crisp to balance the slice, albeit a tad burnt on the perimeter. A richly flavored housemade cousin to the Pizza Hut classic, it’s not a favorite execution, but is undeniably executed very well.
Cheese lovers will enjoy the moderately thick mozzarella on Leo's Pizza. (Mark Mulville/Buffalo News)
Cheese: Leo’s lays down a moderately thick, tasty layer of stark-white mozzarella that delivers everything you need in pizza cheese, but little above that. Average pull with a homogeneous texture throughout due to an absence of browning that might be the result of a moisture content issue. Wet cheese gets “B’s.” That’s a saying from the Old Country (West Seneca).
Sauce: Weak distribution that might be for the best considering the super confusing flavor. I destroyed a slice to isolate a spoonful (I’m sorry, Cheesus) and was more shocked with what wasn’t there than what was. A distinct sweetness followed by … nothing. Can't say it was bad, but it’s adding nothing to the pie short of some texture.
Pepperoni: Shoddy distribution and preparation. What’s a man gotta do to get the $1.50 premium out of his topping selection? It looks like precut cup and char that curled but never crisped. It’s a critical piece to my pizza experience that I would always rather have than not, but this is one of those rare experiences where we’re dipping below average in the category.
Overall: (B-) Like Clark Griswold on a bobsled, we were sitting pretty on an oiled-up high note then sent it swiftly downhill into an ATM for a slightly subpar experience overall. Bingo.
At the end of the day, Leo’s is perfectly acceptable pizza that’s worst characteristic may be that it’s boring. It ain’t my first rodeo in a Leo’s and this baby bucks like a bar mitzvah bull ride; gently and predictably as not to upset anyone. It’s a consistent crowd-pleaser that’s built a business on a basic pie that locals have clearly grown fond of. I’ve had it before and I’ll happily eat it again at some party or work function, but it’ll probably register as “a pizza” and not ”Leo’s pizza.”
Address: 142 Grey St., East Aurora
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to midnight daily.
Lunch deal: Two cheese and pep slices and a 20-ounce pop, $6.53.
Large cheese and pepperoni: $17.75.
Deal: Small cheese and pepperoni pizza on Mondays for $10.99.
Exotic pizza: Steak 'n Stuffed Pepper Pizza ($24.99, large). Garlic butter base with steak, diced stuffed banana peppers and mozzarella and Monterey cheese.
Other locations: In addition to East Aurora, Leo's has locations at 2077 Seneca St.; 2220 Southwestern Blvd., West Seneca; 473 Aurora St., Lancaster.
@SexySlices remains anonymous, but is on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. Follow and contact @SexySlices there, plus check out the extensive archive of 200-plus pizza reviews.
"pizza" - Google News
December 30, 2019 at 10:00PM
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With standout dough and thick cheese, Leo's Pizza is a crowd-pleaser - Buffalo News
"pizza" - Google News
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