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Friday, January 31, 2020

52 Weeks of Pizza: Sofia’s Pizzeria on San Antonio’s far West Side rocks a Philly cheesesteak pie - San Antonio Express-News

Rating: Solid neighborhood option

Pizza might be the official food of rock ’n’ roll. It is at Sofia’s Pizzeria on the Far West Side, anyway, where Bad Company, Queen and the Black Crowes hold court, thanks to classic rock radio piped in direct from Pittsburgh, owner Alan White’s old stomping grounds.

Named for White’s daughter, Sofia’s Pizzeria opened in October, operating from a seven-table joint notched into a Potranco Road strip center that includes a convenience store, gas station and a Mexican restaurant.

The menu spans the casual Italian cafe playlist: pepperoni rolls, lasagna, calzones, salads, wings, chicken parmigiana, spaghetti, meatball subs and, more to the point, pizza. You know, the classics. Rock on.

Best pizza: Besides classic rock radio, another import from White’s home state is the spirit of the Philly cheesesteak on a pizza loaded with shaved sirloin, onions, peppers, cheese, mushrooms and a white sauce that artfully bridges the gap between sandwich and pizza ($19.99 for a 14-inch). The crust helps to foster that relationship, baked between 575 and 600 degrees in a Marsal deck oven for even toasting and a bite like fresh bread.

On ExpressNews.com: 52 Weeks of Pizza launches search for San Antonio’s best pizza restaurants

Sofia’s Pizzeria

Location: 15284 Potranco Road, 210-354-7618, Facebook: @SofiasPizzeriaTx

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Other pizzas: The namesake Sofi’s Pie brings the guilty pleasure of pizza and the wholesome aesthetic of a salad together on one pizza, with fresh spinach and baby portobello mushrooms sharing space with tender chicken and ricotta cheese ($19.99 for a 14-inch).

The Supreme’s a more chaotic thing, a freewheeling collection of pepperoni, sausage and Canadian bacon for strength and mushrooms, bell peppers, olives and onions for character. A good pie, but one that stretched my willingness to pay a penny shy of $20 for a 14-inch pizza.

If value’s a thing, lunch offers a remedy from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday, when a slice with a salad and a drink costs $7.49. The downside is that you pick from whatever slices are sitting in the case, and my slice of the Luau pie with smoked bacon, Canadian bacon and pineapple was stiff and dry, even after a run through the oven.

Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking

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52 Weeks of Pizza: Sofia’s Pizzeria on San Antonio’s far West Side rocks a Philly cheesesteak pie - San Antonio Express-News
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