King Dough tops my list of best pizza in Indianapolis, but its founders also know plenty about rib-sticking Southern cooking, and they plan to show that off at a new restaurant in Fishers.
Pizza-obsessed couple Adam and Alicia Sweet, aka Mama Pizza, “live by pizza, die by pizza,” the motto at their Holy cross pizzeria and the original in Bloomington. But Adam Sweet is an Arkansas native with a serious soft spot for fried chicken, greens and macaroni and cheese.
That’s the kind of comfort food the couple cooks at home with their kids and what they’ll serve at Natural State Provisions, opening in February at Fishers Test Kitchen.
Meanwhile, the Sweets are also expanding the King Dough brand with another pizzeria location possibly south of Broad Ripple or in the Geist area by 2022, Alicia Sweet said.
“We’re talking about it a lot,” she said of the next King Dough.
Pulled pork, greens, mac and cheese
The test kitchen, among eateries at The Yard at Fishers District, is a place where food entrepreneurs may trial-run ideas before opening full-blown, stand-alone businesses. The Sweets hope that’s where their Natural State Provisions experiment will end up, Alicia Sweet said.
As she filled me in over the phone about Natural State Provisions, Adam Sweet and team were in the kitchen recipe-testing fried chicken sandwiches and apple hand pies dusted with cinnamon sugar.
The Yard in Fishers: See all the new restaurants
The Sweets had considered installing Natural State Provisions instead of King Dough at their 425 N. Highland Park Ave. wood-oven pizzeria that opened in February 2019. Pizza ultimately won, but Southern-food lover Adam Sweet wasn’t abandoning the Natural State Provisions idea. When the Fishers Test Kitchen called about two weeks ago, the Sweets revived their Natural State Provisions business and branding plan.
“Of course, my husband was like ‘Yes! Yes! Yes!” Alicia Sweet said.
The perfect fried chicken sandwich
At Fishers Test Kitchen, Adam Sweet is aiming for the perfect boneless fried chicken thigh dressed with coleslaw and Dijon on a sesame seed bun. Think of that sandwich as a precursor to the full-on fried chicken Alicia Sweet said her husband would serve when Natural State Provisions grows out of the Fishers Test Kitchen and into its own brick-and-mortar, location yet to be determined.
The Fishers Test Kitchen site is too small for fried chicken dinners, but chef Adam Sweet still plans homey, creamy macaroni and cheese and his kids’ favorite collard greens stewed with ham hocks, his wife said.
Some of that mac and cheese will land on the Mac Patty burger with bacon, green chili dressing and onions caramelized in stout beer, all on Texas toast. He’ll also braise pulled pork in root beer for the Soda Jerk sandwich with pickled onions and cucumbers. Like tots? The chef wants to smother them in green chili queso, bacon, jalapeno, cilantro, lime crema and green onions.
Alicia Sweet’s busy mom/business woman life inspires the Momwhich, stacking potato chips, turkey, provolone, sun-dried tomato spread, Dijon mayonnaise and lettuce on Texas toast.
Opening day
Fishers Test Kitchen, 9713 District North Drive, inside Sun King Fishers, is scheduled to open the first week in February. Natural State Provisions replaces West Coast Nook, a concept that would have fused Midwestern staples with California flavor. Fishers director of public relations Ashley Elrod said Jan. 20 that Berg has left the test kitchen and confirmed the Sweets are on board.
Other stands at the test kitchen are Lil’ Dumplings, a global street food plan from Rook chef Carlos Salazar. Despite the name, Salazar's place won't be dumpling-centric. Lil’ Dumplings is Salazar’s nickname for his kids. He plans global street food like Szechuan hot chicken steam buns and lobster corn dog fritters drizzled with bacon fat honey.
Look for Korean barbecue fusion at Korave, where chefs talk about bulgogi poutine and fried chicken dumplings. The test kitchen also hosts The Signature Table, a culinary performance space where up to 15 guests can watch cooks in action at special events like tastings and cooking classes.
Follow IndyStar food writer Liz Biro on Twitter: @lizbiro, Instagram: @lizbiro, and on Facebook. Call her at 317-444-6264.
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January 21, 2020 at 05:00PM
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A new King Dough pizza is coming. But first, founder brings Southern food to Fishers. - The Indianapolis Star
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