You could spend a chunk of your 20s in New York City, even marry a Sicilian woman living there, and still not remember off-hand the distinction between two familiar square slices: the Grandma — a simple pan pizza made by immigrant Nonna’s themselves (Scottie’s Pizza Parlor’s DeFino is the definitive version in town) — and the Sicilian.
Pizza Doughnais, a stylish new Brooklyn neighborhood pizzeria from Los Angeles émigrés Justin and Jessica Donais, specializes in the latter, the thick, slow-risen, focaccia-esque squares found on the island of Sicily itself.
Justin, a freelance cinematographer, caught the pizza bug a few years ago, developing an obsession that took him from pizza industry expos to Italy itself and back again. After hosting pizza pop-ups in Los Angeles, their former home, Justin and Jessica moved to Portland to be closer to the exciting pizza scene here.
“I’ve had a lot of pizza in my travels and Portland is world class,” Justin Donais says. “We wanted to join the party but bring something different.”
They found a small storefront in a modern Brooklyn neighborhood building with no public restroom and just enough room to “Tetris” in their oven, rolling racks and other equipment. Jessica Donais, who previously ran a graphic design and branding studio, gave the space its “modern mom and pop” feel, with forest green and rust red accents nodding to the Italian flag and a funky Italian font providing the bubbly, rectangular logo.
Meanwhile, Justin Donais perfected his recipe for a “very digestible,” “very Brooklyn” take on the aforementioned Sicilian: Handsome squares of artisan bread lightly adorned with aged mozzarella, potato slices and bacon or brushed with tomato sauce and sprinkled with anchovy breadcrumbs to form a classic Sfincione, the Sicilian’s direct progenitor.
Pizza Doughnais is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday to Sunday; 3541 S.E. Milwaukie Ave.; 503-232-3434; pizzadoughnais.com
-- Michael Russell, mrussell@oregonian.com, @tdmrussell
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