Rating: Worth a drive
Pizza’s a family thing for Rick Perna and his sons Nick and Ricky.
Dad’s been making pizza for 45 years, a skill he honed in his native Buffalo, New York, before the family opened Capo’s Pizzeria on Broadway just outside the loop four years ago. A second location on Blanco Road north of Bitters Road followed last year.
On the outside, the Broadway shop’s an unremarkable slot in a tan strip mall near the airport. On the inside, it’s a red-and-white checkerboard of tabletops flanked by photos and quotes from movie gangsters and real-life gangsters. Eye-rolling stereotypes or winky New York Italian charm, that’s for you to decide.
What’s not up for question is the quality of the pizza that emerges from the mingled smells of garlic, tomato sauce and baked bread that swirl in the air. The crust is thin enough to fold and flex, sturdy enough to hold its shape and crunchy enough to set up contrasting textures with the cheese, meat and sauce.
At lunch (and all day, for that matter) a slice of pizza as wide as your outstretched hand with a rainbow-bright salad and a soft drink costs just $7.75. The white pie — with garlic, olive oil and mozzarella, Romano, provolone and ricotta cheeses — is a great way to experience the simple prowess of Capo’s. But there’s so much more.
Capo’s Pizzeria
Location: 8522 Broadway, Suite 105, 210-362-1901, capospizzasa.com. Also at 16350 Blanco Road, Suite 103, 210-248-9616.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily
That’s how Capo’s earned the first “worth a drive” rating of this 52 Weeks of Pizza series.
On ExpressNews.com: 52 Weeks of Pizza launches search for San Antonio’s best pizza restaurants
Best pizza: Those little curled pepperoni pools on your pizza at Capo’s aren’t grease traps. They’re flavor savers.
From its rippled collar with baked-on spiderwebs of stray cheese to its topographical map of bubbled tomato and mozzarella, it’s a pizza straight out of Central Casting ($11.50 for a 17-inch large).
Other pizzas: The “Godfather” references never stop at Capo’s. The Moe Greene’s got nothing to do with Mikey in Vegas, but it puts on a helluva floor show with basil pesto, lean ribbons of roasted chicken, artichokes and tomatoes under a melted cloak of mozzarella and Romano cheeses ($15.95 for a 13-inch medium).
The Capo’s Supreme manages to do what so many all-in-one pizzas fail to do. It lets the big flavors of every ingredient come through, because everything’s balanced across every slice of the pie. And by everything, I mean pepperoni, sausage, red peppers, black olives, mushrooms and red onion ($15.95 for a 13-inch medium).
Taking it back to basics, Capo’s does a beautiful job with Nonna’s Tomato Pie, a Sicilian-style square pizza with sauce and cheese and that’s it. Like fresh crusty bread dragged through a pot of spaghetti sauce at the end of an Italian dinner, family-style ($10.95).
Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking
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52 Weeks of Pizza: Capo’s Pizzeria restaurant scores the first Worth a Drive rating of the series - San Antonio Express-News
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