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Friday, January 3, 2020

52 Weeks of Pizza review: Big Lou’s Pizza on San Antonio’s South Side - San Antonio Express-News

Rating: Solid neighborhood option

The 42-inch pizza at Big Lou’s is the thing everybody talks about, on a pan so big the average 4-year-old could lie down and make pizza angels on it. If you don’t feel like spending $74 on a pepperoni pizza, the merits of that moon-size pie are scalable down to the humble 10-incher, the smallest pizza you can get at Big Lou’s.

But you can’t blame Big Lou’s for going big. It’s been right there in the name since Brian Lujan and his parents opened the place on the South Side in 2000, playing off their last name and, as Lujan told the Express-News in 2006, “We also wanted something that sounded a little tough.”

How tough? Tough enough to last two decades, tough enough to handle the overflow crowds that fill the massive parking lot on weekends, and tough enough to open Big Lou’s Burgers & BBQ just down the road. That’s tough enough.

On ExpressNews.com: Top 10 burgers in the San Antonio area from our 52 Weeks of Burgers series

Best pizza: Like most pizza places, Big Lou’s sells more pepperoni pizzas than anything else. But the barbecue pizza’s the best, a sweet and savory blend of marbled brisket, cheese and barbecue sauce, built on a medium-thick crust with garlic breath and a fat, sweet collar ($11.09 for a 10-inch pie).

Big Lou’s Pizza

Location: 2048 S. W.W. White Road, 210-337-0707, biglouspizza-satx.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; noon-9 p.m. Sunday

Other pizzas: The pepperoni’s cut super thin, the kind that gets the flavor across without going too greasy. It goes well with chopped mushrooms for a straightforward, respectable pizza ($11.09 for a 10-inch pie).

The white pizza dials it down with just olive oil, tomatoes, mozzarella and Italian seasoning ($11.49 for a 10-inch pie). But it’s dialed down a notch too far, too pale and bland to compete with better and more crafty margherita-style pizzas.

On ExpressNews.com: 52 Weeks of Burgers: Big Lou’s Burgers & BBQ

Count on Big Lou’s to go big or go home, though. The Super Topping pizza ($13.69 for a 10-inch pie) goes all-in with pepperoni, mushroom, sausage, Canadian bacon, olives, onions, tomatoes, bell peppers and garlic. Somehow in that big family reunion of a pizza, everybody gets along.

Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. Read him on our free site, mySA.com, and on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com. | msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking

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52 Weeks of Pizza review: Big Lou’s Pizza on San Antonio’s South Side - San Antonio Express-News
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