Rating: Solid neighborhood option
Fratello’s Italian Market & Deli opened in 2013 on Broadway near the Brackenridge Park Golf Course and is a one-stop shop for all things Italian. Customers can order pasta dishes, sandwiches and cannoli pastries off the four-page menu and also shop for imported olive oils, meats, dried pastas, wines and other Italian favorites.
There’s a lot going on inside these walls, but make no mistake, the wood-fired pizza oven that greets customers at the door is the undeniable star of the Fratello’s show.
All eight signature pizzas are 12 inches with golden baked crusts that take on a little bit of bottom char from high-heat exposure. The pies come loaded with toppings, and the crust has some give to it, so tackling any slice requires the “fold and hold” technique to keep it all together.
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Best pizza: No sauce. No meat. No veggies. No problem. The four cheese ($15.69) may eat more like cheesebread than a traditional slice of pizza, but that shouldn’t stop anybody from enjoying some of the cheesiest bites in all of the San Antonio area. Each of the cheeses — the earthy fontina, smooth provolone, creamy mozzarella and sharp Parmigiano — is there with noticeable purpose.
The cheeses of this Italian masterpiece are quick to solidify though, so this is one to dig into while piping hot.
Fratello’s Italian Market & Deli
Location: 2503 Broadway, 210-444-0277
Online:fratellosdeli.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays
Other pizzas: Fratello’s proper take on the classic margherita ($15.69) featured thick slices of tangy fresh tomatoes that tasted like they were picked off the vine were set off by a generous sprinkling of chopped leafy basil and a heavy-handed layer of mozzarella. It’s a true taste of Italy.
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The Italian meat lovers ($17.29) pizza is another testament to superior flavor, loaded with freshly sliced pepperoni, Italian sausage and enough Calabrese salami to give it a spicy, peppery finish. It’s a greasy mess, but that’s where the flavor is.
And as temping as the prosciutto e’ arugula ($16.79) pizza is on the menu, it was the one instance where Fratello’s misfired. A little bit of olio piccante (Italian chile oil) goes a long way, and so much was doused onto the pie, it felt like swallowing a brush fire.
Note: Fratello’s also has a downtown location at 115 Plaza de Armas that opened in May 2017 and has a slightly different menu. It was not visited for this series.
Chuck Blount is a food writer and columnist covering all things grilled and smoked in the San Antonio area. Find his Chuck's Food Shack columns on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com, or read his other coverage on our free site, mySA.com. | cblount@express-news.net | Twitter: @chuck_blount | Instagram: @bbqdiver
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52 Weeks of Pizza: Fratello’s Italian Market & Deli on Broadway a solid neighborhood option - San Antonio Express-News
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